Josselin, with its imposing medieval fortress  and stunning ducal residence restored during the latter part of the 19th century, is unquestionably the finest in Brittany. Still the family seat of the dukes of Rohan after 1000 years, its doll and toy museum in the old stables of the castle is the most important private collection in France, with enchanting annual exhibitions developed around a chosen theme.

The Basilica  traces its history back to the 9th century, though much of the current building dates from the 14th and 15th centuries. It contains some late 15th stained glass and houses the celebrated tomb of the one of Brittany’s most famous sons, Olivier de Clisson, the 14th century warrior lord, who rose to be Constable of France, the Commander in Chief of the king’s armies. The tomb is a fine example of mediaeval craftsmanship and was modelled on that Charles V in St. Denis. Desecrated during the revolution, it is only partially restored, but nonetheless remarkable. Josselin’s wealth of half-timbered houses attests its historic prosperity as a provincial town and you can trace its history through an intriguing tourist trail. It is a must for visitors, particularly for its Saturday market  and its family run restaurants.

A few miles to the east, at the Halfway Oak, you will find the memorial to the celebrated Bataille des Trente, fought in 1351 . Little known outside Brittany, this desperate, hand-to-hand struggle between 30 Anglo-Breton and 30 Franco-Breton warrior knights represents the height of the chivalric tradition. Pre-arranged by the warring factions in order to settle local differences, it took place during the 22 year Breton civil war, a proxy-conflict for the French and English kings during the 100 year’s war. Weakened by division and squabbles, the civil war sowed the seeds of Brittany’s downfall and secession to France in 1532—a loss of independence still regretted by some...